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The Colonial Dry Sink



We built our example out of maple, but clear (or knotty) pine or even cherry would make a beautiful piece, as well. Start by cutting out the stiles and rails (A,B,C,D,E) used in the face frame. Making this assembly first will speed-up the construction of the entire cabinet. Using the horizontal boring mode on your Shopsmith MARK V, drill the required 3/8" dowel holes in the stiles and rails as shown in the carcase assembly drawing. Glue and clamp these together, being careful to keep them square during assembly. As an alternative (to doweling), these stiles and rails could be assembled using a biscuit joiner and small, #0 biscuits.

Set this assembly aside and glue up the stock for the sides (F), bottom (G) and top (H). As an alternative, you may wish to make the bottom (G) out of veneered plywood. Once they've dried, sand their surfaces smooth. Next, use a dado blade set-up or your jointer to cut the 3/4" wide x 3/8" deep dadoes in the sides (F) that will be used to hold the bottom (G) in position…then cut the 1/4" x 3/8" rabbets in the backs of the side pieces (F) that will accept the 1/4" plywood cabinet back.

Assemble the completed face frame assembly (A,B,C,D,E), bottom (G) and sides (F) using dowels (as shown) or biscuits. Clamp all pieces and check for squareness. Cut the braces (J) and top cleat strip (K) to length and mount them with #10 x 1-1/2" flathead wood screws. Counterbore the mounting screw holes for the braces (J) so you can plug them later with dowel plugs. Cut the drawer guides (Q,R,S,T) to size and mount these to the carcase with screws and glue.



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