To make the base pieces (L,M), start by ripping your stock to 5" widths, then miter the ends (vertically) to a 45-degree angle in preparation for assembly. Be sure to cut your stock a little longer than necessary to allow yourself room for minor adjustments. Remember, you can always use your disc sander to remove a little stock, if necessary…but it's tough (if not almost impossible) to ADD stock to a board that you've cut too short!
Using your bandsaw or scroll saw, cut the curved contours that will form the "feet" of your dry sink. You'll notice that we've made the radius of these curves just slightly greater than the radius of the Shopsmith Drum Sander to ease the sanding process. Shape the top edges of these pieces with a Bead Molding or Shaper cutter…or a 3/8" Round-Over Router bit . Attach the cleat strips (N,P) to the base pieces (L,M), then assemble the base with counterbored screws. Turn the carcase on its back and mount the base assembly (L,M) to it with screws.
Cut the top (H) to size and round over its front and two side edges (do NOT shape the back edge), using the same procedure (and cutters) you used for the top edges of the base. Cut all the required pieces for the splash board (V,W,X) and the splash board shelf (Y). Bevel the bottom edge of the front piece to 20 degrees and cut the angle on the front edges of the side pieces (W) to match. Using your bandsaw or scroll saw, cut the contoured shapes on the four splash board parts (W,X,Y). ). Using the same procedure (and cutters) you used for the top edges of the base assembly, shape the front edge of the splash board shelf (Y). Assemble all the parts of this section together with counterbored screws and glue. Attach the splash board assembly to the top (H), using flathead wood screws (screw up from the bottom) and glue. Screw the entire top section (with splash board attached) to the carcase, through the top brace (J) and front cleat strip (K).