Welcome to another FREE Woodworking Resource sponsored by your fellow
woodworkers at Shopsmith


Page 1 2 3 4

The Colonial Dry Sink



You're now ready to fit the drawers and doors to the cabinet. Remember that the drawer fronts and doors will be 3/4" wider and 3/4" higher than the openings for them in order to leave a 3/8" lip all the way around their edges. Start by cutting the door stiles (Z) and door rails (AA) to length, according to the Bill of Materials. Be sure to double-check your measurements with your door openings before you make any cuts. With your dado blade set-up, cut the required groves in the stiles (Z) and rails (AA) that you'll need to put the door frames together. Then cut the tenons on the ends of the rails (AA). A Tenoning Jig will make this job much easier.

Next, tilt your saw table to 15 degrees and cut the bevel for your raised panel doors (BB). NOTE: We recommend using a shop-made jig or Shopsmith's Auxiliary Fence to perform this operation more safely. Relieve the back of the door panels by cutting a small rabbet with your dado set as shown in the "Panel to Rail Detail" drawing. This is a "cut-to-fit" operation and you'll want to be sure to use push blocks for optimum safety. Remove just a little of he stock at a time and stop frequently to test the fit of the panel in the grooves. To prevent moisture from finding its way into your raised panels, apply whatever finish you're planning to use to your panels before you assemble them into the frame. Assemble the stiles (Z) and rails (AA) together with glue but DO NOT glue the panel into position. Friction will hold it in place quite nicely.

Now, cut the drawer fronts (CC) to size, then cut the rabbets on these and around the edges of the assembled doors. Set your Dado Blade and adjust your fence to make a cut 3/8" deep and 3/8" wide for the rabbets on the back sides of the door rails & stiles…and the top and bottom (back) edges of the drawer fronts. Then, move your fence out 1-1/8" to make the shoulder cuts for the 3/8" deep rabbets on the drawer ENDS. Next, move the fence back to 3/8" and adjust your depth-of-cut to 1-1/8" to make your final pass.

Next, rout a 1/4" wide by 1/4" deep groove in the drawer sides (DD) and fronts (CC) to hold the drawer bottoms (FF). Use your MARK V in the horizontal boring mode to drill the dowel holes in the drawer sides (DD) and fronts (CC). Since there is only a 3/8" clearance here and the dowels are specified to be 1/4" diameter, you'll have little room for error here….so Measure Twice / Cut Once! Now, drill the dowel holes for the drawer backs (EE) and prepare to assemble the drawers. First, insert the drawer bottoms (FF) into place but don't glue them. A couple of brads in he bottom edge of the drawer backs will hold them in their place.

Finally, mount the back of your dry sink (U). Sand everything smooth, clean up any dust, and apply the finish of your choice. That's it !


Send For Your FREE Woodworking Fact Kit and "Sawdust Therapy" TV Show.

First Name*:
Last Name*:
Street Address*:

USA Canada

E-mail Address*:

  2009 Shopsmith Inc. All rights reserved.

  Policies | Contact Us | Links | Corporate Web Site